How "Beef"'s Costume Designer Captured Distinct Asian American Identities Through Clothing

Since its Netflix debut on April 6, "Beef" has earned rave reviews and sparked emotional reactions among Asian American and immigrant communities. Unique in its storytelling and visuals, the A24 production features both a thrilling plot and simultaneously comedic and poignant performances from cast members Ali Wong, Steven Yeun, Joseph Lee, and Young Mazino. But underneath all of the adventure, it offers a complex, nuanced look at the diversity of the Asian American experience, which is also portrayed through the lens of fashion.

Describing "Beef" as her "most personal project" to date, costume designer Helen Huang says Danny (Yeun) and Paul (Mazino) remind her of her own stepbrothers, who also latched on to subcultures in the majority-white cities of Torrance and El Segundo, CA. Prior to discovering the film, she was searching for an Asian American production, whether written by an Asian American writer or featuring a majority Asian American cast. "As soon as I read the script, I knew I wanted to do it because it shows Asian Americans on so many different economic levels and in so many different regional parts of LA," Huang, who previously worked on titles like "Station Eleven" and "American Horror Story," tells POPSUGAR. As she started working on "Beef," photos of family, friends, and others in her life landed on her mood board.

Asian Americans are not a monolith, and it was crucial for both Huang and "Beef" creator Lee Sung Jin (also known as Sonny Lee) to authentically represent that through the characters and their clothes. Each character in "Beef" has a distinct sense of style, none of which falls under the stereotypical "rich Asian" aesthetic that's often exaggerated on screen. "We have so many different details to our experiences, so we really tried to get as nuanced as possible," Huang says.

Beef. (L to R) Joseph Lee as George, Ali Wong as Amy in episode 103 of Beef. Cr. Courtesy of Netflix © 2023
Netflix

"Because there are a lot of Asian men on the show, I wanted Asian men to be recognized as style aficionados."

Marked by whites and creams, Amy (Wong)'s minimalist, creative wardrobe creates a strong identity throughout the series; it only veers into color when she's experiencing turmoil. Danny (Yeun), on the other hand, dresses like he hasn't left the '90s in his outdated work shirts and thrifted button downs. George (Lee), similar to his wife, wears relaxed, stylish pieces that scream luxury from an artistic point of view in a non-obvious way. "Because there are a lot of Asian men on the show, I wanted Asian men to be recognized as style aficionados. That they are stylish, like clothes, and dress beautifully, outside of the box," Huang says.

Aside from perfecting each character's style nuances, sourcing clothes proved to be another challenge for Huang. She shopped from each character's perspective — for Amy and George, it was specialty boutiques and luxury online retailers, because they'd never be seen at a department store. For Fumi (Patti Yasutake), meanwhile, she sourced unique designer pieces from The RealReal. For Danny and Paul, Huang imagined they'd likely pay visits to the mall and Goodwill, so she curated from mall brands and thrifted finds. Due to a stringent budget, the crew purchased (and subsequently returned) much of the wardrobe from online retailers like Farfetch, Ssense, and Mr. Porter. There were so many returns, in fact, that some of the stores even gave her "stern talking-tos" and banned her temporarily. "We did make a couple of them angry, but I think it was worth it," Huang jokes.

Ahead, Huang breaks down each of the core characters' different styles. Keep reading for more details about the inspiration behind each of their looks, key labels they've worn, and more style notes.

Amy's Style in "Beef"
Netflix

Amy's Style in "Beef"

Huang describes Wong as "the dream actress to work with" because she isn't afraid to "go full character." Mirroring her wealthy plant business, Kōyōhaus, Amy's style is simplistic, relaxed, and features pieces from independent designers and boutiques like Mohawk General Store, a multi-brand luxury retailer in LA. Mohawk co-founder Bo Carney, whose Instagram is full of chic outfit photos, was actually on the mood board Huang created for Amy, along with flower and plant shop owners she discovered on Instagram.

Viewers may have noticed that Amy's wardrobe largely consists of whites and creams, with stark pops of color when she goes through change. Viewers first meet Amy when she's in her car, wearing an ivory cable-knit bucket hat that's flipped up. "You wouldn't think a perky hat in such a warm texture would belong to a person that just got into a road rage," Huang says. During the penultimate episode, in the midst of a failed heist and extreme violence, Amy even wears an ivory jacket and tan trousers.

Huang recalls pitching that specifically to creator Lee: "Wouldn't it be fabulous and kind of surreal if [Amy] was in this very controlled color?" She explains: "Underneath her personality is all of this doubt, rage, violence, and dissatisfaction with herself. She looks very controlled on screen, but what she's doing is extremely out of control, and I really like that tension that builds."

Danny's Style in "Beef"
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Danny's Style in "Beef"

The goal with Danny's style was to make sure he looked the opposite of current, Huang says: "He's the type of man that stopped buying clothes when he was, like, 25." Consisting of work shirts, fleeces, and layered long-sleeves, most of his wardrobe was thrifted from Goodwill, reflecting the way the character often feels like he's stuck in the past.

"We were looking from 1998 to the early 2000s, because my thought was he kind of stopped evolving after that," Huang explains. While Danny certainly doesn't pay attention to fashion trends, he isn't careless about how he presents himself. We see him dressing up in a cornflower blue button-down from JCPenney for church and more professional, clean shirts when he's on the job as a contractor.

Danny's look in particular was inspired by the men Huang saw growing up, including her stepbrothers and father. "I watched the Asian American men around me trying to navigate their space in America and how American they had to be to be accepted . . . Through Steven [Yeun]'s character, I hope that they feel seen," she says.

George's Style in "Beef"
Netflix

George's Style in "Beef"

George easily has one of the most enviable wardrobes of the series, oozing with quiet luxury and a stylish confidence that's not often portrayed in Asian men on screen. With an artistic point of view, he has an "international sensibility," achieved with clothing from online retailers like Ssense and Mr. Porter.

While he's seen in interesting silhouettes and tailored designs, his warm, loving personality is reflected through his impressive collection of knit sweaters from brands like Nanushka and Kapital. "It's like, the 'secret bougie,'" Huang says. "You know his sweaters are like, a thousand dollars, but he's really low-key. He's not the type of character that cares about Tom Ford shoes, but he cares about the newest Croc release."

Paul's Style in "Beef"
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Paul's Style in "Beef"

Though Danny and Paul are brothers who grew up in the same environment, the latter is clearly more engaged in the world and his surroundings — which is also demonstrated through his clothing. With Paul's finances and background in mind, Huang's point of reference was mall culture, specifically stores like Zumiez, Pacsun, Champion, and Express. "He's trying to be more current [than Danny] but he's still 10 years behind," as opposed to Danny's 20.

Because Mazino's IRL style was so cool and up-to-date, Huang remembers telling the actor apologetically that they had to "tone down the cool." "The top half [of his outfit] would be normal, and then the bottom half, we'd put him in really skinny jeans from Abercrombie with rips," she says.

Fumi's Style in "Beef"
Netflix

Fumi's Style in "Beef"

As the widow of a famed artist, Fumi's chaotic, avant-garde wardrobe is a big part of her character. "She designs herself like an art piece," Huang explains. You can't miss her flowy patterned dresses, vintage Issey Miyaki pleats, and strong color choices, particularly alongside Amy and George's "naturalistic" clothes.

In an effort to stray from stereotypical portrayals of older women on screen, Huang wanted to go all out and commit to the over-the-top, Comme des Garçons aesthetic. "Older women don't really get a chance to be seen as full characters with their full identity," she says.